![]() Get the car back today, drove around town, and the check engine light went off. But, nothing seems to make the problem go away, The shop and I do not know what the problem could be? They are trying everything possible to fix the issue. The shop doing the work has a great rep around town. The shop check the timeing belt and that did not slip. It's like I am feeling a sub woffer going boom. Sitting at idel the car vibrates to a point of anoyance. Bty the check engine flashs until I pull over then it goes solid. When I go in the mountains cylinder 4 misfires. P0302 - CL-2 does not blink, only goes solid My problem is when I drive around town cylinder 2 misfires at random times A few other parts I've replaced before this. So far I've replaced the front control arms, outer tie rod ends, all 4 struts/shocks, front wheel hub/bearing assemblies, new tires (cheapo tirerack but they're quiet), and had the transmission flushed at the Mazda dealer. Bump rattles can be the hardest to diagnose.The camshaft sensor was at 80 and regaped to 30 thousands?įuel pumps cleaned about 3 times in the last month. It's definitely related to engine speed, and is harsher when accelerating hard. Usually the best approach is a long visual inspection both under the hood and under the body. Depending on the type of noise which is hard to describe via text, the noise could be different items. I do not see any technical service bulletins for rattling noises. Here is a list of some of the most common things I have found from experience. Radiator / condenser- visual and wiggle test.Įngine accessory brackets- visual and wiggle all brackets I somewhat remember a MAP sensor bracket attached to the right front strut tower.īrake calipers- will not rattle when braking over bumps wiggle test. Struts- usually accompanied by leaking from the shaft seal. Push the boots up and inspect for wetness around the spring area. Strut mounts- loose connection at strut rod to center mount nut, loose connection at strut mount to body outer bolts, or broken rubber in strut mount (almost have take the strut mount out to check this one). Springs- would have to be broken or cracked. Sway bar links- would have to wiggle test while the suspension is on the ground (not extended). Sway bar to body mounts- visually inspect the two body rubber mounts for cracks or damage.Įngine / trans mounts- Apply brakes and rev the throttle in forward and reverse. The noise would be present or you will see the engine jump up or down.Ĭenter engine support cross member (radiator support to center body)- Check the bolts for torque. Inspect the engine mount that attaches to that support.Įxhaust- rap and shake on the exhaust for noises or play.Ĭontrol arm bushings- visual inspection for cracked bushings or off-centered positioning. These are just a few of the common many items. It could still be something simple like a loose light assembly, loose bumper, or even something under the dash. The best process is to narrow down the area the noise is located and the type of noise (metal on metal, plastic on metal, etc). Plancette covered almost every possibility I could think of (jeez your good), but covering them all can be a slow and frustrating procedure. The best method I've found for tracking things is to have the customer drive while I sit in the passengers seat with a stethescope. Once we've identified the noise in question (people tend to identify creaks, rattles, bumps, scrapes, ect. as all kinds of different things), note the exact type of circumstances under which it occurs (speed, powertrain load, chassis dynamics, road surface, ect.). Finally, I have the driver, or someone else, repeat the action until I can track it to a particular section of the vehicle (what you hear from the driver's seat is not neccesarily where it's coming from I've found problems from a back seat that I swore were in the front when I was driving).
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